Cylinder head - Min Tec head range

I'm often asked about the range of cylinder heads I do for Mini Spares/Mini Mania, so here's the low-down…

Although the following range of heads accommodate specific fitments - like pre-1992 where by-pass hoses and heater take-offs on the clutch end of the head are used and post-1992 where neither of these exist, and on SPi (single point injection) heads where they don't usually have a threaded hole for the temperature sender - in reality it is easy to convert almost any of them to fit any other engine since holes are easily blocked off - or by-pass hoses not used, water pumps blanked off and drilled thermostats fitted (see articles on cooling/engine transplants). A list of which is what and what to do to each to convert is at the end of this article.

For more in-depth descriptions of the head specs, see article 'Cylinder head - About Min Tec Heads' - basically the valve sizes used have been decided on after extensive and in-depth flow test...

Engine transplants - Engine to gearbox fitment

Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit (1275cc based engines)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (850/998/1098cc based units)
FD - Final Drive

NOTE: This information is largely for transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information on up-grading transfer (drop) gears, refer to relevant separate article.

Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings.

Engine transplants - Engine to gearbox fitment

Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit (1275cc based engines)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (850/998/1098cc based units)
FD - Final Drive

NOTE: This information is largely for transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information on up-grading transfer (drop) gears, refer to relevant separate article.

Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings.

2003-08, Oil gallery plugs

Here's something unusual that cropped up a little while ago that I've never commented on before - main oil gallery plugs/bungs.

I'd been conversing via e-mail with a guy that was experiencing weird oil flow/supply problems with his performance street engine. Initially he'd been blaming it on the supposedly superior oil pump he'd bought. He sent it to me; I inspected it and found it to be in perfect health with no signs of causing the issues in hand. Firstly there was a claimed total oil drain down from the pump causing lack of initial supply on start-up for a few seconds, and then repeated crank bearing failures when used in anger (i.e. at high rpm for protracted periods). Unless there is something drastically wrong with the oil pump and fitment - cracked pump body, non-flat mounting surface, mounting bolts too long, split gasket, etc. - it will not drain down simply because the inlet and outlet ports are above the centerline, near the top of the pump as it is mounted to the block.

C-AEG410, C-AEG411, C-AEG412, C-AEG413, C-AEG414, and GLP110MSSUREFLOW OIL PUMPS...

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST

The pumps are thoroughly cleaned when assembled, so only priming the pump is necessary prior to fitment. A precautionary testing of the pump prior to priming is recommended - merely turn the rotor using thumb and forefinger engaged on the pump drive. It should turn freely. If it does not, it will be necessary to strip the pump down to make sure no debris is causing the problem. Make careful note which way up the annulus fits and ensure it goes back the same way. Prime the pump with preferably engine building lubricant (less likely to drain away before start up is effected).

If not properly primed, oil pressure may not be obtained; crankshaft and bearing damage may result.

Make sure the retaining bolts do not bottom out in the relevant tapped holes in the block before securely clamping the pump to the block. Any air leaks caused by using bolts that are too long will cause oil pressure deficiencies, drai...

05.06.10, Brands Hatch race report by Keith Calver

I am not sure why, but I don't really enjoy Brands Hatch. It is a quite technically difficult circuit to set fast lap times on. It is most definitely one of those circuits that 'be slow to go fast' applies to.

You can not hustle or hurry it. I am speaking from the point of view of having to use treaded tyres that don't give a tremendous amount of grip. And probably a circuit where 'loose is fast' applies... but I am still building confidence.